Have you ever done an amazing set of lashes then sat the client up, got them to open their eyes and then not been happy with them? Why did they look nice when the client’s eyes were closed? Why have they turned out like that? Well, let me help you get a better understanding of the different effects we can create on the client to suit their eye shape.

It’s not a one size fits all approach when it comes to applying lashes. It’s important that during your consultation you assess the eye shape and discuss with your client what the best look is going to be to suit their eyes. Every eye shape will benefit from a different lash placement.

So, let’s take a look at the different eye shapes and what’s going to look best on your client:

Get the right look for your client


Eyes are lifted on the outer corners and therefore the effect of natural lashes would look lovely. From the inner corner, you would work shorter lengths up to your longest length to the middle of the eye and then back down in length.


Close Set

Less than one eyeball width apart, therefore we need to pull the focus outwards. We do this by applying shorter lashes on the inner eyes and gradually go longer on the outer to draw the eye out longer. This is known as a Cat/Kitten effect.



Eye sockets can be hidden so it’s a good idea to open the eye by placing longer lashes in the middle of the eye and shorter ones as you go to the outer of the eye.



The outer corners of the eye have a slight drop therefore by applying longer length and stronger curls (C or D) to the end it will give the eye a lift where it needs it.


Wide Set

These are more than one eyeball width apart so we need to draw the eyes in. We can achieve this by using thicker lashes (0.20) and a strong curl like a C or D to give the illusion of the eyes being closer together. Please avoid cat eyes as it will make the eyes appear even wider.



This eye shape has the appearance of projected eyelids.  A natural curl using shorter lashes and a little longer on the ends will work best with this eye shape. The natural curl and shorter lashes will soften the protruding effect.



To create a look with round eyes it’s best to use longer lashes on the outer corners and to narrow the eyes from looking so round. A ‘B’ curl would be a lovely subtle curl to help soften the round look.



Known as the perfect eye shape because the inner and outer corner of the eye are symmetrical. This eye shape will suit any style so have fun playing.



These eyes have an extra layer of skin that droops over the crease, this then causes the lid to appear smaller. This eye shape is mostly found on mature clients. You will find using a C curl and longer lengths will help to lift the eyes.

So now we have knowledge of the different eye shapes and what placement of lashes is best for that client.

We need to remember we are the knowledgeable and qualified lash technicians, therefore, our clients are looking to us to advise them what’s going to suit them best. Clients may come in and ask for a certain look or show you a picture of what they would like. If you feel it’s not going to suit them then be sure to explain what you feel will most enhance their features. They will thank you for it when they look in the mirror at their luscious lashes.

This article was originally written by Beccy Smart of Forever Beautiful Skin & Beauty Clinic & Training Academy.  Beccy is one of our training partners and is based in Northumberland. To enquire about training with Beccy please click here.