We often get calls from confused lashpreneurs when their lash adhesive starts acting a bit weird, so we thought this information would be super useful for everyone working in the field, especially those managing in badly ventilated rooms or in hot temperatures.
Tip 1: Check the humidity in your room
Lash extension adhesives cure by the catalytic activity between the humidity in the air and the humidity of the adherents. The higher the relative humidity is (e.g. in a treatment room) the faster the product cures. The best atmospheric conditions for good, reliable bonds are between 40 to 60% relative humidity. This is one reason why professional adhesives have a relatively short shelf life.
If humidity is too high (>80%) a so-called shock setting takes place; if humidity is too low (< 30%), setting time can become very slow. Too high a humidity provokes a shrinking process of the adhesive layer, which leads to less bond strength.
We do not recommend using a nanomister as this can introduce additional humidity and can shock cure the glue. Shocking the glue results in the lashes drying too quickly resulting in reduced lash retention and unhappy clients.
Tip 2: Watch the temperature
Temperature influences the time of the chemical reaction a great deal. Generally, it can be said that a 10°C increase in temperature results in twice as fast polymerization time. The optimal room temperature for curing of these adhesives is between 20 and 24°C.
We would recommend purchasing a digital hygrometer as it will reliably inform you what the temperature and humidity are of your work place. In summer, the temperature may well get higher than you think.
Tip 3: Make sure the lashes are absolutely clean
The surface condition of the natural lash and lash extension has an enormous influence on the success of a bond. The surfaces need to be clean and dry. This is very important in achieving strong, long-lasting bonds and all mascara residue must be removed.
Ask your clients to come to their appointment without eye makeup, and always thorough cleanse before starting. Make sure that you cleanse the eye using oil-free products.
Tip 4: Check the PH value of a surface
Especially in the field of lash extension adhesives, one special item that is very important to consider is the PH value. If the surface is acidic, the setting time slows down. On the other hand, the set speed increases when the surface is alkaline. This means it’s vitally important to make sure the lashes are absolutely clean before applying the lashes.
We recommend using our Protein Pads, which are perfect for cleaning the lashes and achieving the correct PH value.
Tip 5: How much are you using?
Only dispense a small amount of glue at a time onto your jade stone and glue dot. The glue dot will keep the adhesive in a small ball, preventing it from drying out, or absorbing moisture. We recommend that you replenish your glue every 15 to 20 minutes.
When opening the bottle, be careful to only remove the nozzle and not the whole lid. Removing the lid will introduce oxygen and possible moisture to the bottle and reduce the life of your adhesive.
Tip 6: Check the thickness of the adhesive layer
There are two reasons why the adhesive layer should be as thin as possible. First of all, the setting time is determined by it. The thinner the adhesive layer is, then the faster polymerization will take place. Secondly, the strength properties are better if the adhesive layer remains thin.
Tip 7: Make sure your room is well ventilated
Blooming or frosting (a weird white coating) happens when adhesive vapours react with moisture in the working environment and falls back down onto the work area, leaving a white powdery residue.
To help prevent this use sufficient ventilation over your work area. Apply less adhesive – less is more. You are aiming for thin glue lines for stronger, longer-lasting bonds.
Tip 8: Where are you storing your adhesive?
We’ve possibly left the most important tip to last. Storing your adhesive in the correct way is absolutely critical.
All adhesives should be kept in a cool, dry place when not being used. Keeping it in a cupboard is the best option as it will be better protected from room temperature fluctuations. Adhesives should never be stored in the fridge, near any central heating, near your waxing trolley or in your car. Even a small temperature change can affect how your adhesive works as it can cause condensation in the bottle which will cause the glue to start to cure.
Again, this is where a room thermometer is vital.
Don’t forget to keep your glue in an upright position.