People often ask how they should choose the length and thickness of the lashes they use.

There are so many different lashes available these days, how on earth do you choose? Are you feeling the pressure to have everything? Don’t panic…

When I first started out, there was only one thickness, 0.10; and five lengths. There was only one type of glue available, and one type of tweezers. Imagine that!

In the last few years there has been a massive explosion of lash types, tweezer types, glue types and everything else you can think of. It’s easy for a lashpreneur to feel completely bogged down in all that choice. Let us demystify a few things for you!

J Curl

These are for those ladies with straight lashes that point down towards their belly button! When applying lashes, it’s important to use lashes that resemble the client’s natural lashes a little; a dramatic curl simply won’t last on dead-straight lashes. Also, just as you couldn’t use an D curl on super straight lashes, if a client has super curly lashes, J curls will never sit right.

B Curl

This is the next curl up, with slightly more curl than a J Curl; it’ll give a little more visibility when a client looks at her lashes straight on. Perhaps you could blend some of these on the outside edge of someone with super straight lashes.

C Curl

These are my favourite; they’ve a nice curl, but they’re not unmanageable, and give a nice wide eyed look. They can be used on their own if the client has a nice curl in her lashes already. Beware of using on those super straight lashes though; they just won’t last.

D Curl

These are the Betty Boop of lashes as they are super curly and give a very glamourous look. They curl from the first third of the lash so it is important that they should only be used on clients whose natural lashes are already curly.

The diagram below highlights the differences between the different curls.


It's all about the curl

It’s so important to ensure you match the client’s natural lashes with the extensions, otherwise you’re in danger of the lashes not holding – and then your client will not be pleased with her treatment.

Be realistic and remember to match the right lash to the right client. Never ask your client to choose her extensions; it’s simply not fair to let her choose when she doesn’t have the experience and information you have.


Now to thicknesses…

0.05, 0.07 and 0.10 are mostly used for the Volume technique lashes.

0.07 are perfect for Express lashes; they allow you to layer them on and give a gorgeous, light and feathery look.

0.15 are not so popular these days.

0.20 are perfect for a standard lash extension for those clients who want a dramatic look. The client’s natural lashes will need to be reasonably strong to hold these so again – check the client’s lashes in their consultation before layering on something that won’t stay.

0.25 are for those who really want to be noticed. Thick, dramatic and rather gorgeous – but mostly obviously fake. The golden rule, as with 0.20s, is to make sure your client’s lashes are strong enough – otherwise her lashes will start to break off, and the lady who came in looking for big, thick lashes will soon be knocking your door, asking why she has no lashes at all!


With the advent of rapid volume and flat lashes, the lash industry has changed even further. Clients are now able to wear lashes that previously would have been unsuitable due to the new manufacturing processes as they are much lighter and fix much better to the client’s lashes.