As I was looking back at some old training brochures I did many moons ago, I realise what a long way the eyelash extension market has come.  In those days, there was just .15mm thickness in J curl and one type of wholesale eyelash extension glue!!!  Now we are bombarded with J, C, O, D and nearly all the other letters of the alphabet!

So how does one cut the wheat from the chaff?  What do I really need on  my trolley?  I would recommend that you have a minimum two types of curl available.  It’s not just a matter of what eyelash extension look the client wants, it’s also a matter of which lashes bond better with different types of natural lashes. For example, clients with annoyingly straight lashes like mine, you know the ones that zoom downwards towards the tip of the nose, are no good for anything other than J curl. You will never get a good bond if you try and put C Curl on.  The client will love them until 48 hours later when they start dropping off.  You have to try to match the curl of the eyelash extension with the natural curl of the client’s lashes so you can get 100% bonding – well that’s if you want your lashes to be durable!

It’s all very well for your client to come in and say I want the thickest and the longest eyelash extensions you have, and just fill them up!!!!  Did any of you see that rather funny film ‘First wives club’?  Well if you didn’t it had Goldie Hawn in it.  The opening scene is her marching into the plastic surgeons office saying ‘fill ‘um up’.  She was referring to her lips. The doctor tried to tell her that if he put anymore collagen in there, she would look like she got stuck in a drain.  Check this out, it’s very funny:-


The point is that as eyelash extension professionals, clients look to us for recommendations and it’s important to know when to say no! Most of us girls want thick long lashes, but if our lashes are fine, straight and delicate, its no good putting .25mm C Curl on, they just won’t stay!

This is where the consultation is important as you can establish what the client wants to get out of her treatment and you have an opportunity to tell her what is possible and manage her expectations.

Apart from thicknesses and curls, there are also the different techniques available depending on the look and the lasting power of the eyelash extensions the client is looking for.  Here are a few of my tips:

  • Fine, delicate straight lashes should have no more than .2mm and you should use J curl.  Be careful with Express Lashes as they can be hard on the lashes.  It’s much better to do proper individual eyelash extensions here.  They will last longer and are more gentle on the lashes.
  • Thick abundant lashes with a natural curl are always a great foundation to work with because they will support the weight of a .25mm and you can use C Curl and upwards depending on how curly the lashes are.  You need to remember if you are doing individual lashes, your eyelash extension can’t be too much curlier than the natural lash otherwise you won’t get your 100% bond, and the client will be back within a week demanding her money back!
  • Very naturally curly lashes will be no good with J Curl lashes, so you do need a variety of curls on your trolley.
  • You need to think about how long your client is expecting the eyelash extensions to last.  Express lashes are great for a short term treatment, but the client will need to come back to have them removed after about two weeks whereas with individual lashes, the client need only pop in for a quick top up so in the long run she will save time and individual lashes are kinder to the lashes.
  • If your client is hard core and wants Express Lashes eyelash extensions every two weeks, there will come a point where she will need to rest her lashes which is your duty to point out

These are the sorts of things you should discuss with your client at the consultation and make sure she understands the differences between the different types of eyelash extensions available and the techniques.

Feel free to ask questions!


Alison x