Which lashes are for what?


People often come to me asking how they should choose the length and thickness of the lashes they use.

There are so many different lashes available these days, how on earth do you choose? Are you feeling the pressure to have everything? Don’t panic…

When I first started out, there was only one thickness, 0.10; and five lengths. There was only one type of glue available, and one type of tweezers. Imagine that! In the last few years there has been a massive explosion of lash types, tweezer types, glue types and everything else you can think of. It’s easy for a lashpreneur to feel completely bogged down in all that choice. Let me demystify a few things for you!

J Curl

These are for those ladies with straight lashes that point down towards their belly button! When applying lashes, it’s important to use lashes that resemble the client’s natural lashes a little; an O curl simply won’t last on dead-straight lashes. Also, just as you couldn’t use an O curl on super straight lashes, if a client has super curly lashes, J curls will never sit right.

B Curl

This is the next curl up, with slightly more curl than a J Curl; it’ll give a little more visibility when a client looks at her lashes straight on. Perhaps you could blend some of these on the outside edge of someone with super straight lashes.

C Curl

These are my favourite; they’ve a nice curl, but they’re not unmanageable, and give a nice wide eyed look. They can be used on their own if the client has a nice curl in her lashes already. Beware of using on those super straight lashes though; they just won’t last.

O Curl

These are super curly and you should be careful to only use on clients whose natural lashes are already curly.

It’s so important to ensure you match the client’s lashes with the extensions, you’re in danger of the lashes not holding – and then your client will not be pleased with her treatment. This should all be covered in your client consultation. Be realistic and remember to match the right lash to the right client. Never ask your client to choose her extensions; it’s simply not fair to let her choose when she doesn’t have the experience and information you have.


Now to thicknesses…


0.05, 0.07 and 0.10 are mostly used for the Volume technique lashes.


0.07 are perfect for Express lashes; they allow you to layer them on and give a gorgeous, light and feathery look.


0.15 are not so popular these days.


0.20 are perfect for a standard lash extension for those clients who want a dramatic look. The client’s natural lashes will need to be reasonably strong to hold these so again – check the client’s lashes in their consultation before layering on something that won’t stay.


0.25 are for those who really want to be noticed. Thick, dramatic and rather gorgeous – but mostly obviously fake. The golden rule, as with 0.20s, is to make sure your client’s lashes are strong enough – otherwise her lashes will start to break off, and the lady who came in looking for big, thick lashes will soon be knocking your door, asking why she has no lashes at all!


Wow, things have really come along in the last ten years haven’t they… I’m looking forward to seeing what else happens in the next ten years!

Alison xxx






Your Comments

  1. Allison spence on

    Hi can you tell me about your express lash course do you run them in Scotland? Thanks x

  2. Judy on

    I thaugh 0.15 ‘s were the most popular and healthy for NL and most lash artists I’ve talked to only use them for classic lashing? Most say 0.20 are too heavy? What is your opinion?

  3. Kim Gibb on

    Hi Alison

    I really enjoyed reading your blog, it brought back so many memories of when I was a lecturer in Motherwell College and you came and taught myself and some of my then colleagues this brand new treatment that we had no clue about! This was in 2007! I felt I had to reply and say thank you, I have been obsessed with lash extensions since then and wanted to let you know how much I appreciate you giving me the opportunity to become what I am today. I practiced and practiced like mad and was fortunate enough to be offered the chance to be your Glasgow trainer. I enjoyed this position and I left Motherwell College to start up on my own which was successful for a time. Unfortunately I was ill for a while but now very lucky to be back to full health and I am now the Glasgow trainer for Caledonian Therapy Academy. I love teaching lashes and I’m amazed with how they have moved on, it’s a constant learning curve. I also write articles for Lash Inc Magazine which I really enjoy as well. So, anyway, I just wanted to say how much lashing has became a part of my life and from that first day when I thought ‘Oh my God! What are these things?’ I have no regrets whatsoever and I am still enjoying learning about new products and equipment.
    Best wishes

    • Alison Francis on

      Kim, that is wonderful, yes it was quite something when they first came out, but I knew that the potential was enormous. Maybe I had not realised myself just how much potential they had in those days. If you ever need anything, just ask! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. With love Alison xxx

      • Kim Gibb on

        Thanks Alison xxx

  4. Linda Fudge on

    Clarity with a capital C
    Alison you are a beacon of light in a lash market overloaded with choice
    Love your blogs

    • Alison Francis on

      Linda, thanks so much for your comment, sometimes I feel that the lash world has gone mad and we have to stay grounded which is difficult sometimes with all the smoke and mirrors around! Love Alison xx

  5. Leanne Boxall on

    Hello AH Francis, I am interested in doing the Russian volume lashes, do you do courses for this please?

    • Alison Francis on

      Hi Leanne, how are the lashes going? Let me know if you need anything! With love Alison

  6. Jane on

    Hi are your lashes indivual lash extensions or do you layer? And how long do they all last. Do you have a few lashes to one lash? Do you do Infills with your lashes? Thank you, Melissa

  7. Jassie on

    Extremely helpful… Women need details of such things you know 😉 And most of other articles are quite superficial!.. I go into details of every product I use, including those ones for the eyelashes! I “torture” manufacturers and dealers with many questions, but at the end, I am having a perfectly full information and I know what exactly I’m using.

  8. Amber on

    Hi there I was wondering is it possible to attach individual lashes on yourself?

    Thanks for the help!

    • Sandra Hamilton on

      Hi Amber,

      Thank you for your question.

      The simple answer is no, you cannot fix individual lashes on to yourself and we would not recommend that you try. This is for several reasons including the majority of the glues on the market are for closed eye techniques and therefore you would need to be able to keep your eyes closed for a considerable length of time. Secondly, you would have difficulty separating the lashes successfully to be able to apply the lash to your own eye.

      Eyelash extension treatments should only be carried out by a fully qualified professional.

  9. Seena on

    Pls advice on which lashes are good to use for individual lash extensions? Thank you
    Which brand ?

    • Sandra Hamilton on

      Hi Seena,

      Many thanks for your questions.

      All of our lashes are individual lash extensions, with the exception of the volume fan lashes.

      However, they must only be used and applied by fully qualified lash technicians. If you have any questions about training, please get in touch.

      Obviously, we would only recommend using our own AHFrancis lashes!


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